I enjoy the modelling part of this hobby a lot more than painting, and sometimes even more
than playing as well.
Most of my modelling projects for any game the last fifteen years or so have had extensive
conversions done to some or all of their models.
With Guild Ball models being available in resin, this opens up a lot of possibilities for
conversions and repositioning of the models.
make another one, to try making a tutorial of how I made it.
and pictures for you to try and follow.
An important first step (which I often skip, to regret it later) is to clean all parts of mold lines/flash and release agent from the moulding. (Yes I forgot some mold lines here as well)
Wash the model with dish soap and scrape/cut/file away all visible mold lines.
This conversion is made using almost exclusively an industrial razor blade and a scalpel.
I also use a drill and steel rod of 0.7mm and a bit of greenstuff from varying manufacturers
plus superglue. And a lot of hot water.
I start by carefully removing the models outstretched right leg. I do cuts from multiple
angles, to make sure the "exit wounds" are controlled, as I don't care about the middle part
of the cut at all.
To straighten the leg, I make controlled cuts halfway through the leg in the places I want to
bend it. I then pour up a cup of newly boiled water and toss the part in and it goes soft in
less than half a minute. I pick it up with some sort of tool (a fork) and quickly bend it as
I want it and then hold it under running cold water for a couple of seconds.
I do the same procedure with the second leg and the head. Cut it half way through from the
back of the bend, to leave the details in the front. Heat it up and reposition and then cool
it down. The good thing is you can do this multiple times with the same detail until you are
happy with it.
When reshaping the arms, I start of by pinning the handle for the weapon, to prevent it from
bending. Then multiple cuts where I want to bend the model, carefull to ruin as little detail
as possible.
When reshaping with water, I managed to break the left arm of, but that also made it easier
to position it correctly.
As seen in the picture, you can carefully pour hot water on just a part of the piece you are
reshaping to just partially heat it up.
As neighter arms nor legs will "fit" on the butchered torso, you will have to pin them in
place and probably remove some excess material from the body as well.
Carefully reheating some parts might be needed too. I had to reheat the feet a couple of
times to make them stand straight on the ground and look balanced with the rest of the pose.
Here it's basically trial and error, but here is how he ended up before greenstuff.
Some basic greenstuff just to hold the model together and reinforce the joints, and then
you'll have to wait until the next day for it to cure.
A large apron covers up all the anatomical wrongdoings done to his midsection.
Then comes the boring part (for me) which is to carefully add details and wait for them to
cure before moving on to the next part.
I highly recommend cheating and adding bits to cover up your poor greenstuff work.
Here I had a spare set of knives (from Meathook?)
After a couple of short evenings of work, you will be ready to spray your model, so see if
you need to fix some joints better. If so, I usually just paint them over with white glue.
So here he is, in all his upright standing glory. Tenderiser.
Hopefully, this post has inspired at least some of it's readers to try something similar,
with Tenderiser or some other model.
Please show of your results to inspire others.
And remember, stealing is the highest form of praise.
So go ahead and
Steal and Improve!
